Antiguo Cuscatlan: Our "home town"

 It was just days after our arrival to El Salvador that my husband and I started to explore our surroundings.  Our car wouldn't arrive for a while, so our ventures were limited to what we could do via what my Dad would've referred to as "ankle express" or what could be seen through the windows of friends' cars on trips to the grocery store.  We became instantly intrigued by the small-town-within-the-big-city that is Antiguo Cuscatlan, and have since come to consider it our home town. It's an easy five minute drive from our neighborhood, or back then, a not-so-easy 35 minute walk including a substantial hill.  It was still worth it. 

While doubtless most of our embassy colleagues know Antiguo Cuscatlan, I wonder how many have actually parked the car and combed the grid of streets to see just how much we have so close by.  I'd like to show you what you can find in the hopes that you'll do a bit of a wandering yourself to get to know the town and the people running the huge variety of small businesses.  

For ease of description, I'm going to refer to the two main one-way streets as the lower road (the one heading from east to west with the volcano on your right), and the upper road (from west to east, volcano on your left), and everything else will be referred to as a side street.  The place isn't that big; I have faith you can follow along. 

Let's start with something to eat.

What are you in the mood for? Feel like going traditional? Then you have to start with pupusas or tamales.  You can't possibly miss the dozen pupuserias on the lower road or the few dotting the side streets.  At any of these spots you can fill yer' belly for less than $5 with the usual selection of pupusas de queso, de frijoles, de chicharron, revueltos etc.  There's one spot towards the end of the lower road on the right that also sells empanadas and my absolute favorite is the empanada de platano con leche.  Not the crusty, flaky Argentine type of empanada stuffed with meat or cheese, these are made of platano and filled with a how-do-they-do-that milky custard.  Perfect for dessert or even breakfast.  

We may have over-ordered on pupusas. Rookie mistake.

Want Korean? Yes, really!  Go just a bit towards the western outskirts of town on Calle Las Rosas and you'll find Seoul Garden owned by a Korean family offering a variety of Korean standards to wash down with a little bottle of soju. Not cheap, but well worth it for the authenticity. 

We may have over-ordered here, too. Veteran non-mistake.

Mexican? Got it, lower road on the corner of a side street is a bopping Mexican spot that always has both musica and the grill going, and you'll find lots of smaller spots offering tacos. 

Turkey sandwiches?  (That's pretty specific, eh?)  I recommend Panes Coyo that specializes in panes de pavo aka turkey sandwiches on big, puffy rolls with hot au jus and veggie fixins' on top.  They also have turkey salads and other combos, and when I stopped in today for my share, it was the spot to be for The Real Abuelas of Antiguo Cuscatlan - The Ladies Who Lunch edition.  

The Ladies That Lunch crowd at Panes Coyo. 

I hadn't yet added the sauce.

Just a few doors down and in the same strip of businesses on the upper road as Panes Coyo, you'll find Papalandia and can dig into a variety of stuffed baked potatoes or burgers.  Or, if you're with a group who would like a variety of options, try Plaza Tonatiuh, a cute outdoor-seating food court with Peruvian, seafood, burgers aptly named "comida gorda" and others. 

Looking to pick up dessert or bringing something to a special occasion? The classic bakery Teclena has an incredible assortment of Salvadoran pastries and gorgeous cakes.  Or, give a smaller business some love and try the darling Shakes shop on the corner of the lower road for fruit smoothies, licuados and healthier-options of cookies and cakes (per their "Un toque saludable" claim on the door - a healthy touch).  The woman who owns the shop is very friendly and I like the color and variety of little things in her store. 

Warning: Do NOT enter while hungry. 

Shakes is more than, well, shakes. 

It's also homemade cookies and small gifts.

But Antiguo Cuscatlan is more than eating out, and this is where simply hitting the streets will prove fruitful.  In just a ten minute walk today, I passed three shoe and luggage repair locales, two florists, about a dozen pharmacies, a party and school supply store, fruit and veg stands, butchers, a large car mechanic shop, a basket-and-spices shop and a closet full of clothing and shoe stores.  Take a look:

I've bought two pairs of sandals in Antiguo Cuscatlan (so far...).

THE best mask selection and my go-to for the past two years. 

Pinata anyone?

Cute gifts and artisan shop, but doesn't open until late afternoons. 

Get yer' anime t-shirts!

Self-explanatory, and thank you for the translation. 

Iglesia de Los Santos Ninos Inocentes

Antique store offerings

After all, "Antiguo" is their first name. 

Buy a basket and...

...fill it with spices or local wine.  I bought a jar of cardamom which isn't easily available elsewhere.

Next to the cemetery on the lower road you'll find a good florist. 

Take advantage of repairing or reupholstering furniture here where the price will be a fraction of that in the US - and support a local business. 

Mens haircuts for under $5

Fun new spot for fruit smoothies and licuados.  I had green apple, mango and basil. 

As for timing, try visiting at different times of day or evening and you'll find what feel like completely different towns.  Visiting mid-day, you'll see many businesses shuttered and wonder why, but come in the late afternoon or evening and the town springs to life with busy streets and restaurants hitting their peak hours. Surrounding the town square park are table-top vendors for all sorts of tchotchkes, caldrons of ponche for sale by the cup (a hot concoction of spices and alchohol - or not - of your choice), and ice cream and churro shops for after dinner.  You're in the real El Salvador - grab a sorbet and a spot on a park bench and enjoy the people watching.  

Don't ask what exactly is in the caldron - just try it. 

A beautiful smile for a stranger and some meat on the grill - that's El Salvador!

Churros!  (They just look like someone's lower intestine.)

Pick out a few crafts from the street salesmen. We got a deer and a bowl. 

Squirrel!

Beyond the town changing from day to evening, there are also certain times of the year not to miss.  The central park and plaza are transformed each Christmas into a holiday light show featuring a four story tree towering over a nativity scene.  Just days after Christmas are the fiestas patronales (patron saints' day) for the Catholic parish Los Santos Ninos Inocentes featuring the procession from the church and winding through the hilly streets of town. 

Christmas 2021 

Our purview from the top balcony of a tipicos restaurant.  This view and a pupusa dinner for about $5 each.  What a monetary oddity - anything for 5 bucks!

Procession of the devout at the patron saint festival of Los Santos Ninos Inocentes. 

Finally, instead of beating the well-trodden path to the shinier Super Selectos for your groceries, try La Despensa de Don Juan at the Atlacatl roundabout on the western edge of town. They've recently given the produce section a facelift and while you're not going to find Udon noodles, tahini or a bottle of wine you might actually enjoy drinking - there is certain charm to this supermarket that keeps me coming back. With wider aisles, faster check-outs, a large lower parking lot and my favorite feature - you don't have to weigh your produce first! - I really prefer shopping here.  The produce is just as good as the fancier chain stores and I still find leeks, Portobello mushrooms and boxes of blueberries.  What more do you need?

If you're part of the embassy community, come see what our town has to offer.  For those of you just armchair traveling - l hope this gives you a glimpse into typical Salvadoran life, vibrant with color, warmed by kind, smiling faces and just a touch of grittiness to keep things real.  C'mon down!